What Is a 4 Button Jacket Called? The Irish Guide to Classic Tailoring

When you walk down Grafton Street in Dublin or stroll through the cobbled lanes of Galway’s Latin Quarter, you’ll see men wearing jackets that look sharp, timeless, and just a little bit different from what you’d find in London or New York. One of those subtle differences? The number of buttons. If you’ve ever looked at a man’s suit jacket and counted four buttons down the front, you’re not imagining things. But what’s it called? And why does it matter here in Ireland?

It’s Called a Double-Breasted Jacket

A four-button jacket isn’t just a jacket with extra buttons - it’s almost always a double-breasted jacket. Unlike single-breasted jackets with one row of buttons, double-breasted jackets have two overlapping rows. The four buttons you see? Two on each side. But here’s the twist: you don’t fasten all four. In fact, most Irish men who wear them only button the top two - sometimes just the top one. It’s not about looking fancy; it’s about comfort, especially when the wind whips in off Galway Bay or the rain rolls in from the Atlantic.

Double-breasted jackets have been around since the 19th century, originally worn by military officers and later adopted by gentlemen in cities like Dublin and Cork. You’ll still spot them at formal events like the Galway Races, the Kilkenny Arts Festival, or even at a wedding in Limerick. They’re not everyday wear for most, but they’re the go-to for when you want to look polished without trying too hard.

Why Do Irish Men Choose This Style?

It’s not just about tradition. In Ireland, where the weather changes by the hour, a double-breasted jacket offers practical benefits. The overlapping front gives you an extra layer of warmth - no need for a bulky overcoat when you’re heading from the pub to the theatre. It also hides the waistline better, which is why it’s popular among men who value a clean silhouette, whether they’re a farmer from Tipperary, a teacher in Sligo, or a businessman in Belfast.

Brands like John Rocha, Paul Costelloe, and McDermott’s of Cork have long made double-breasted jackets a staple in their collections. These aren’t flashy designs. They’re wool, often in navy, charcoal, or herringbone - fabrics that hold up in damp conditions and look better with age. You’ll rarely see a bright red or neon-green double-breasted jacket in Ireland. It’s about subtlety, durability, and respect for craft.

How It’s Different From Other Button Configurations

Let’s clear up the confusion. Not all four-button jackets are double-breasted. A single-breasted jacket can have four buttons too - but it’s rare. Most single-breasted jackets have two or three buttons. A four-button single-breasted jacket tends to look outdated or awkward. In Ireland, if you see someone wearing one, they’re either going for a retro look or they bought it second-hand from a market stall in Temple Bar.

Double-breasted jackets, on the other hand, follow a clear rule: four buttons, two rows. The buttons are usually paired - one on the outer flap, one on the inner waistband. The top two are functional. The bottom two are decorative. That’s why you’ll often see them unbuttoned. It’s not laziness - it’s etiquette.

When to Wear a Four-Button Jacket in Ireland

You won’t see this jacket at a Sunday football match in Croke Park or on a hike in the Wicklow Mountains. But you will see it:

• At a formal dinner at the Shelbourne Hotel in Dublin
• During a wedding at St. Mary’s Cathedral in Limerick
• At a gallery opening in the Crawford Art Gallery, Cork
• On a business trip to Belfast or a meeting with a client from London
• At the Dublin Theatre Festival or the Galway Film Fleadh

Pair it with a crisp white shirt, a silk tie (not too wide, not too narrow), and polished leather shoes - preferably from John L. Logan or Shoe City in Limerick. Skip the sneakers. This isn’t the time.

How to Find One in Ireland

If you’re looking to buy a four-button jacket, don’t go to a fast-fashion chain. Instead, head to one of Ireland’s long-standing tailors:

• McDermott’s (Cork) - Handmade suits since 1948. They’ll measure you, adjust the lapel width, and suggest wool blends that handle damp weather.
• Barry’s Tailors (Dublin) - Known for classic cuts and a no-nonsense approach. They’ll tell you if a double-breasted jacket suits your build.
• Donegal Tweed Co. (Donegal) - If you want something with local character, try a jacket woven from Donegal tweed. It’s warm, textured, and unmistakably Irish.
• Second-hand shops - Try St. Vincent de Paul stores in Galway or Dublin. You’ll find vintage double-breasted jackets from the 70s and 80s - often in excellent condition, and for under €100.

Pro tip: If you’re buying second-hand, check the lining. A jacket with a faded or torn lining won’t last. And always try it on with a shirt and tie. The fit changes dramatically when you’re buttoned up.

The Cultural Weight of a Four-Button Jacket

In Ireland, clothing doesn’t just cover you - it speaks. A double-breasted jacket says you respect tradition, but you’re not stuck in it. It says you know the difference between a formal event and a casual one. It says you’ve spent time in Dublin’s city centre, sat in a corner booth at Moran’s in Kinsale, and maybe even had a pint with a man who still calls his suit his ‘Sunday best’.

It’s not about showing off. It’s about showing up - properly dressed, quietly confident, and ready for whatever the Irish weather throws your way.

What to Avoid

Don’t wear a four-button jacket if:

• You’re wearing it with jeans - unless you’re at a very specific art opening in Derry.
• You’re buttoning all four - it looks stiff, old-fashioned, and out of touch.
• You’re wearing it with a hoodie underneath - no matter how cold it is.
• You’re buying one from a tourist shop in Killarney that says ‘Irish Suit’ on the tag - they’re usually imported and poorly made.

And never, ever wear a double-breasted jacket with a baseball cap. Not even in Galway.

Final Thought: It’s Not Just a Jacket

A four-button jacket in Ireland is more than fabric and stitching. It’s a quiet nod to craftsmanship, weathered by Atlantic winds but still standing. It’s worn by men who know that looking good doesn’t mean looking loud. It’s the jacket you put on when you want to say, without saying a word, that you’ve done more than just survive the day - you’ve dressed for it.